Hallway decorating that includes an organization system is vital in order to keep your home clean and user friendly!
Today I’m writing to share with you Part 2 of our back hallway makeover. If you missed Part 1 you can see it by clicking here.
So after I painted the door I wanted to install a new organization system for our keys, backpacks, purses, hats, etc. My intent was to create a place for all of our everyday belongings to “live” but not clutter up the hallway, particularly the floor. Also I needed it to be a system that was safe for our toddler. i.e. couldn’t be pulled over or destroyed.
Before I started planning the design, I spent some time looking at pictures on Pinterest to get ideas. Here are some of my favorites that I found for inspiration….
1. I LOVE the frames leaning on top of this system but unfortunately I do not have the room for a ledge this size..
Found on apocketfulofblue.blogspot.com via Pinterest |
Found on creeklinehouse.com via Pinterest |
found on craftysouthernmama.blogspot.com via Pinterest |
found on fancyfarmgirls.blogspot.com via Pinterest |
found on shelterness.com via Pinterest |
found on sopocottage.com via Pinterest |
After looking at TONS of images, I decided that I needed my plan to be VERY simple so that I could complete it by myself (well pretty much), AND keep it cheap! The problem with doing a design with 2 x 4’s (as in most of the pictures shown above) was that it would require me to remove and re-install the base board because 2×4’s are thicker than the width of our baseboards and would hang off the wall past the base board. I just didn’t have the confidence in my abilities to do that, so I narrowed it down to this plan and drew it up on paper…
I know at first glance this probably looks very confusing so I’ll explain. My plan consisted of using a big piece of bead board with 1 simple board on top, similar to but smaller than a 2×4 . This system would fit perfectly across our wall to the right of the newly painted door….
this what it will look like against the base board |
*sidenote-I purchased the raw pine bead board without primer. It’s not available online so I had to use this one as a reference but they are the exact same price. |
I knew it had to be cut into Piece 2. (Refer back to drawing if you get confused) So I took down Piece 2, leaving Piece 1 on the wall. Then I measured, on the wall, from the right edge of Piece 1 over to the center of the outlet. I then marked this exact measurement onto Piece 2. (from left to right) Then I removed the outlet cover from the wall and traced it on Piece 2 using the “center mark” I had just measured as a starting guide. Then my WONDERFUL friend Mrs. S used her jigsaw to cut along the traced rectangle of the outlet cover. (to create a “starter hole” to get her drill inside the board, she first drilled a hole in the center of the rectangle with a drill bit just large enough to accommodate the size of her jigsaw blade) and tada, an outlet hole in Piece 2 was created…..
This pic isn’t great, as I took it with my cell phone. The clothing bar is held in place with tension against a cutting board |
After it dried completely, I sanded down the excess caulk so that the board was one flat surface and you could not tell where a nail went into the wall. Then I painted the first coat of paint. I used the exact same color as our trim because I wanted the area to look clean and continuous. Our trim color is Moderate White by Sherwin Williams. I made the mistake of buying eggshell instead of Satin because I mis-read the label on an old can of paint that I found in the attic. But that’s ok because I’ll show you how I made up for it in the end. 1 coat of paint did not go very far at all with this bead board. I quickly realized it was going to take at least 3 maybe 4 coats to achieve complete coverage because of how fast the bead board soaked in the paint. My advice to you if you attempt this project and plan on painting your bead board, buy the pre-primed board or prime it first with some cheap primer paint.
After both the joint compound and the caulk dried, I went back and sanded down the excess joint compound over the screw holes and the caulked seam so that the board was one continuous, flush piece. I was kind of surprised at how much sanding dust this produced for such a small area…